Echmiadzin is about 20 kilometers (I've gone metric) from Yerevan. I took a marshrutka (mini-bus) from the center city for 250 drams -- a little less then a dollar.
Unfortunately, I sat next to a persistent man who within the 30 minute ride tried to convince me of many things. No, he was not Armenian, but Persian. He was in his late twenties "touring" Armenia. Iranians come to Armenia quiet often for vacation. The two countries share a border. He claimed to be a history PhD and spoke some English - all wonderful until he started telling me how I should come back to live with him in Tehran where life is peaceful, food is wonderful, and everything is great. I declined politely. He then questioned my views on smoking, drinking, the Muslim religion and President Obama. I was glad to get off the bus.
Having escaped further awkward conversation, I focused on finding Mayar Tachar, the main church. It turned out to be the religious holiday Khachverats, a day devoted to the the holy cross (Surb Khach). It's also a day to remember those who have passed. Mayar Tachar is a three level church with lots of bells and ornate stone carvings.
Beautiful singing voices greeted me when I entered a packed church filled with elderly women with detailed needle points veils covering their hair. After the ceremony, I entered the church museum which holds Surp Geghard, the "Holy Lance" which is my handy Lonely Planet claims was used by "a Roman soldier to pierce the side of Christ on his way to Calvary."
I discovered another church down the road. The original base of the church is 1400 years old (so said the tourist information sign). I walked in to discover a baptism taking place. One of the perks of living in this country - religious holidays and family celebrations of the present are steeped in the past.
I wish I could explore with you!
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